Tuesday, 30 September 2014

V1349 made into a top


Ah! There's nothing like a quick serger project.

I have just made up  V1349 on Pattern Review (reviewed by two others) up as a top for my daughter. The material is a fabulous spongy viscose python print knit that is almost like the neoprene that's so trendy now. I bought it at the Fabric Store a couple of months ago. It didn't shrink when washed and it dries in next to no time. It was a big hit with my daughter who said "Make me a skirt please!"
It's at the end of the post.

There was also just enough for a top with self bindings and it became this:


V1349 Front


V1349 Back

Regarding the pattern I was attracted to the line drawings rather than the pattern cover and although I have seen some great woven versions of this dress I love the style of it for a knit top and bought it in order to make some colour blocked exercise gear. 



Both reviewers on Pattern Review said that the pattern ran loose when made up in wovens so I knew I would have to scale down the fit.

I'd compared my daughter's measurements to the finished measurements on the pattern then gone down a size as suggested but still ended up taking it in 1cm along the sides to give it the fit that it needs. I've left on that 1cm in the seam allowance rather than serging it off as insurance.

For the skirt - my daughter's original request - I used a pattern that I'd made previously from one of her RTW skirts, blogged about here 

As with the top I also kept the side seam allowances on the skirt. At the moment the whole outfit should just skim but not cling. How do I know? If it is just that bit too tight on me it ends up perfect on her but I can't wait to see her in it. I am going to try to get photos soon.



Self drafted A-line skirt with yoke

Keep on sewing,

Val.

Sunday, 28 September 2014

More pants - Burda 7863


Dear Bloggers,

In my previous post I had used an old OOP burda jeans pattern for wovens in a stretch fabric and had both crotch and back thigh issues. I did a quick fix by putting a elongated diamond patch at the crotch junction and they sit better now. Then I thought, hey the Burda crotch curve fits me, I should buy a updated Burda jeans pattern for stretch fabrics. I'd made a self drafted pants pattern last year for wovens but stretch is a different animal.

So I bought Burda 7863 at a spotlight sale, along with some stretch sateen in a summery print and went for it.


The front is good and the legs fall well. The pattern has the classic jean pockets and fly facing details, not that I wear anything tucked in to show them off!


Front details

The instructions are good too. I made sense of the fly construction and I like the facings that go all the way to the centre front. I had to tweak the legs though. They had to be cut slimmer than the pattern to get slimline capri proportions. The back leg then had to be trimmed further from knee to ankle at the inner leg because it swung around and was visible from the front. However, I still got back thigh to knee concertina folds at the back.



Now, I have to tell you I tried pinning along various creases on the diagonal from knee to hip  or crotch to knee and it all affected to way the leg hangs. I considered whether or not to shift just the lower leg out or in. 

That was not the answer. Then I compared the back piece to the burda leggings  post I make and wear every winter and have come to the conclusion that I need a sliver more off the inside of the back inner leg but tapering to just below the crotch. 

So, that's what I will try next, for me that is. Right now I will leave the pants headache alone and make an outfit for DD.

Thanks for reading,

Val.



Thursday, 18 September 2014

Burda Jeans 8408


Hello Bloggers,

As the northern hemisphere rolls into autumn, here the days are suddenly longer and the sun stronger and warmth is in the air. Time to start thinking about summer sewing. I have so many plans and my sewing mojo has returned.

I finished the short version of Jalie 3132 from black bamboo spandex and I like it very mush. My daughter discovered a Australian website store that sells bamboo and hemp fabrics that are just wonderful! She ordered a scrap bag and this top is from one of the 'scraps'. This is my first time sewing with bamboo. I had heard that it stretches and loses it's shape but this bamboo spandex knit has been worn and washed several times and is just fine. It is also amazingly soft and comfortable. The website The Bamboo Fabric Store  has a fixed postal fee within Australia of $9.90 and quick delivery. No association and all that.. but I am a fan! Their hemp linen is yummy as well. (Watch this space).



Onto the floral jeans. I resisted the red jean trend of a few years ago because it's not a look that works on me and I've resisted patterned jeans as well but when I saw this beefy stretch cotton sateen in Lincraft I fell in love with it. I dug out an old Burda jean pattern that I have had for about a decade and made a quick muslin then tapered the legs and raised the waist by 1.5cm. I like the jean details of the pattern and the way it fits my torso. The pattern, for straight legged hipster jeans, is OOP





Edit:

The front is fine but the back pulls. I had thought that I'd taken a bit too much from the inner thigh and back crotch point but on more comparisons and measuring I realized that the crotch point is not what I got wrong but the length of the back rise.  The muslin I made was looser so this was not so apparent.

Also, on some figures and extra 2 cm of back rise at the centre back would not matter but on mine it does. Lesson learnt. 

There are white tops in my mental sewing queue for summer and white will go well with these pants.




I took the photos in the Plough and Harrow regional park. Looks like I'm out in the bush doesn't it?

For Paola:    The Western Sydney Regional Parklands link is a system of parklands and reserves that surround the Prospect Dam and extend through western Sydney. Two of the main ones, Plough and Harrow and Lizard log are 10 and 15 minutes drive from where I live.


Keep on sewing,

Val.